Components
Sunday Games make board games and the parts that go with them—cards, dice, miniatures, tarot, the whole set.
Over the years we’ve worked on a lot of Kickstarter projects, so we know where things usually get tricky and how to keep them moving.
If you already have a game design and just need a manufacturing partner you can trust, that’s where we come in.
Over the years we’ve worked on a lot of Kickstarter projects, so we know where things usually get tricky and how to keep them moving.
If you already have a game design and just need a manufacturing partner you can trust, that’s where we come in.
Box
Printed Components
Classic Components
Other Components
BOX
A board game box is an engineered packaging system designed to protect components, look strong at retail, and ship efficiently. It combines the right box style, durable materials, correct sizing, a secure insert/tray for organizing parts, and finishes that balance shelf appeal with cost—plus practical details like easy opening, quality checks, and logistics-ready packing.
Two-Piece box
Think of this as the “board game tuxedo”: a rigid lid + base that makes your title look serious before anyone reads the rules. Thick greyboard keeps it crisp, and leaving ~15 mm breathing room around the biggest component saves players from finger gymnastics. Dark art? Add a scratch-resistant matte film so it stays handsome after a hundred game nights.
Magnetic Closure box
This is the box that says “ta-da” all by itself. Magnets (N42 or stronger is common) give that satisfying snap, but they also add weight—so design it around the game’s mass, not your ego. With a metal plate or strip inside the flap, the closure feels like sealing a spellbook. If contents are light, a fold-flat magnetic box can ship flatter and cheaper, then pop into premium “collector” mode on the table.
Slider Box
A slider box is basically a drawer for your dungeon loot: pull, reveal, repeat. It’s great when you want a “gift box” moment or layered storage (cards here, minis there). The trick is tolerances—too tight and players wrestle it; too loose and it rattles like dice in a tin. Add a sleeve stop or ribbon pull and you get that addictive drawer-pull satisfaction. Pair it with a tray and it becomes instant setup theatre.
Tuck Box
The tuck box is the humble hero of card-heavy games: light, compact, and perfectly happy living inside a bigger core box as a tidy divider. It’s easy on shipping and great for travel decks, promos, and expansions. Use sturdy cardstock and clean crease lines; a snug flap survives the classic ritual of “one more shuffle” without exploding in your bag. Bonus: it makes your insert look organized even when you’re not.
Printed Components
Printed components are the “working parts” of a board game—the pieces players touch every turn, argue over occasionally, and inevitably shuffle with suspicious enthusiasm. This category includes punchboards, cards, player boards, rulebooks, reference sheets, tuck boxes, and all the labels and trackers that keep the game running smoothly. The key is balancing clarity and durability: readable iconography, consistent color across print runs, accurate die-cutting and alignment, and finishes that match the play experience (varnish, matte/gloss lamination, linen texture, anti-scratch). Material choices—paper weight, core stiffness, black core for cards, coatings for rub resistance—directly affect feel, longevity, and perceived quality. Done well, printed parts don’t just look good; they prevent “rules debates,” speed up gameplay, and make the whole product feel professionally engineered rather than “printed and prayed.”
RPG Book
An RPG book is where your worldbuilding lives—and where your binding choices get judged. Short page counts often use saddle stitching (page totals like multiples of 4), while thicker tomes lean on perfect binding or hardcovers for gravitas. Want it to stay open on the table? Consider lay-flat or spiral options. Dark covers benefit from scratch-resistant films, because dragon ink shows every scuff.
Puzzles
Puzzles are board games’ quiet cousins: same table time, less arguing about rules. The real magic is in the die-line—pieces can’t be too tiny, and the knife spacing can’t be too tight, or production turns into confetti. Many makers avoid laminating the back to keep fit and feel consistent. Do it right and you get that “one last piece” dopamine without needing a victory condition.
Game Boards
The game board is your stage: it must look great, fold nicely, and not warp after the first pizza night. Multi-fold structures and edge wrapping add strength, and a scratch-resistant finish helps darker inks stay clean. Factories often have a max open size (700×1000 mm), so map designers should dream responsibly. Printing the back is usually a small cost for a big “complete” vibe.
Punchboard
Punchboard is where tokens are born: pop-out coins, tiles, trackers, and all the cardboard chaos your players will inevitably misplace. Single-layer is classic; double-layer feels “deluxe” because bits sit in recessed slots. Smart layout matters—good nesting reduces waste and avoids extra knife costs. If you’ve ever heard a perfect punch “snap,” you know it’s the sound of quality control smiling.
Cards
Cards are the handshake of a game: you feel them before you trust them. Common stocks include C2S and various colored cores; black core often feels premium, while 350 gsm C2S is a popular balance of snap and budget. Sizes and shapes can go wild, but remember shuffling reality. Add sleeves? Then thickness and corner radius start a whole new conversation—usually after the first aggressive riffle shuffle.
Booklets
A rulebook is your game’s customer service desk—except it can’t answer follow-up questions. For short books, saddle stitching keeps costs down (again: page counts in 4s). For longer guides, perfect binding or even hardcover makes sense, especially for premium lines. Use clear hierarchy, good diagrams, and a finish that won’t scuff if the cover is dark. Your goal: fewer “wait, what?” moments and more “ohhh, got it.”
Cardboard Screens
Screens are the polite way to say “stop looking at my secrets.” They hide hands, resources, or scenario notes, and their stability depends on fold angles and support flaps. Production needs clean dielines that mark cut vs fold—otherwise your “spy wall” becomes a sad tent. Keep art readable from the player side, and you’ll turn bookkeeping into a tiny private kingdom behind the screen.
Score Sheet
Score sheets are the unsung MVPs: cheap paper that prevents expensive arguments. Single sheets work for quick games; pads shine for campaigns, leagues, and roll-and-write designs where writing is the mechanic. You can print single or double-sided, color or black-and-white, and still keep costs friendly. The best score sheet is the one players don’t notice—because it quietly makes the game run smoother.
Classic Components
Beyond printed parts, classic non-paperboard components include wooden pieces (meeples, cubes, discs, pawns), plastic parts (miniatures, standees/bases, trays), dice (standard or custom), and metal items (coins, tokens, pins). You’ll also often see acrylic/resin markers, cloth bags for bag-draw systems, spinners, and rubber/elastic elements used in a few dexterity or organizer designs.
The manufacturing priorities are dimensional consistency (fit and stacking), surface quality (no burrs, sharp edges, or paint rub), color stability (including matching to Pantone when required), durability (drop/abrasion resistance), and safety/compliance when selling internationally.
Miniatures
Miniatures are tiny promises of epic battles. PVC is a common sweet spot for detail vs cost; ABS can be used on parts that need extra stiffness. Want instant drama? A light wash/shadow finish (“sundrop” style effects) makes details pop without full painting. Good 3D design also respects mold logic—overhangs and undercuts can turn “hero sculpt” into “why is my spear missing?” fast.
wooden pieces
Wooden pieces bring warm, tactile charm—meeples that feel like they’ve been on adventures already. Beech, pine, birch, or MDF each hit different price/feel points, and decoration can be laser, screen, heat transfer, or UV print. Fine lines can be tricky on wood grain, so keep icons bold. Done well, wood turns even a spreadsheet-dry euro into something you want to fidget with between turns.
Dice
Dice are the original random number generator, now with far better fashion options. Acrylic is common, but wood, resin, or zinc alloy can change weight and drama instantly. Marking can be engraved, heat transfer, screen print, or molded-in for durability. Polyhedrals, custom faces, weird shapes—yes, yes, and yes. Just remember: the louder your dice are, the more your table mates will notice your “lucky” rolls.
metal items
Metal bits are how you make cardboard feel like treasure. Zinc alloy components add satisfying heft, and finishes like plating, paint, or antiquing can push them from “token” to “artifact.” The catch is manufacturability: designs must suit casting and release cleanly, or costs climb fast. Use metal where weight matters—coins, markers, special minis—and players will treat them like upgrades, not just parts.
plastic parts
Plastic parts are the Swiss Army knife of components: dials, stands, clips, pawns, and clever little widgets that make mechanisms smoother. Materials like ABS, PS, or PVC offer different stiffness and surface feel, and some parts can be standardized to save tooling cost. When you go custom, think assembly and tolerances early—nothing kills immersion like a dial that jams or a stand that wobbles.
Tray
A tray is the difference between “setup took 20 minutes” and “we’re playing already.” Cardboard trays protect and organize without feeling too fancy, while plastic trays can double as banks or resource pools for a deluxe experience. Even humble zip bags help if the categories make sense. Aim for fast open, fast reset, and fewer loose bits—because every minute saved on sorting is a minute gained on actual fun.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
What is the minimum order quantity (MOQ)?
Our standard MOQ for board games is typically 1000 units. However, we can offer a sample order, so you can assess the quality before committing to a larger order.
Do you offer customization options for the game components and packaging?
Yes, we offer full customization of game pieces, boards, and packaging. You can provide your designs, and we’ll work with you to create custom game components, such as custom dice, tokens, boards. And we offer a range of packaging options, including custom boxes, inserts, and printed manuals. We can also offer eco-friendly packaging options such as recycled paper boxes or biodegradable materials. Please let us know your packaging requirements, and we will help design a solution that fits your brand.
What materials do you offer, and can I inspect the quality?
We offer a variety of materials depending on your needs, such as high-quality cardboard, wood, and plastic for game boards; premium paper or plastic for cards; and metal, wood, or plastic for tokens. We can send material samples for you to inspect the quality before proceeding with production.
What is the production lead time?
Production typically takes 3-4 weeks for smaller orders and 4-6 weeks for larger orders. We will create a sample for your review before mass production begins, which takes approximately 1-2 weeks. Shipping time depends on the destination and shipping method chosen.
How do you ensure product quality and can I inspect before shipping?
We conduct strict quality control checks at each stage of production. If you’d like, we can arrange a third-party inspection or send you photos or videos of the production process. We also allow for factory inspections, so you can be sure of the product quality before it ships.
What are the shipping options, and do you assist with import fees?
Shipping costs depend on the weight, volume, and destination. We can offer both sea and air shipping options. We will provide a shipping quote and assist with customs clearance. We can also offer DDP (Delivered Duty Paid) service, where we handle customs and import duties for you.
How do you protect my intellectual property (IP)?
We take IP protection seriously. We sign a Non-Disclosure Agreement (NDA) with all our clients to ensure your designs remain confidential. Additionally, we offer the option to work with trusted third-party IP protection services if required.
What after-sales support do you offer?
No one wants issues to arise after production – neither you as the publisher nor us as the manufacturer. That’s why we provide robust after-sales support to ensure problems are resolved quickly and responsibly, giving you complete peace of mind. Our support includes:
- 1 year of free warehousing for your inventory, so you can manage reprints or fulfillment without extra costs.
- Free replacement of any defective or damaged components – we ship them directly to your players worldwide at our expense, with no questions asked.
- A dedicated support team available for any post-delivery concerns, claims, or reorders.
- Post-production: 3 random final samples sent for your approval, plus full assistance with third-party inspections. We take full responsibility for the quality we deliver, so you never have to worry about being left unsupported if something unexpected occurs.
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